us

plump dark raspberries and ripe cherries combine with herbes de provence, slight lavender and a slightly gamy quality on this wine's elegant nose. floral-driven flavors of hibiscus, rose hips and elderflower spice up the woody elderberry fruit, settling into mediterranean herbs and a soft zing that goes deep into the finish.

ar

slightly dry and scratchy on the nose, and definitely fully oaked in the toso style. but once it settles deeper, black fruit notes escape. the palate is snappy and juicy due to 2008's cool harvest conditions, and the flavors are a mix of plum, berry and woodiness. long and oaky on the finish; drink now through 2013.

us

drink this dryish wine with almost anything that calls for a light-bodied, crisp white, and don't worry about it. it has savory citrus flavors, with a pleasant hint of vanilla honey.

it

honeysuckle, wisteria and stone-fruit aromas mingle together in the glass while the silky, semisweet palate doles out creamy yellow apple, white peach and a confectionery note. a hint of glazed hazelnut signals the close while the foaming mousse lends finesse.

it

aromas of blue flower, ripe berry and allspice jump out of the glass of this full-bodied but elegant red. the fresh, juicy palate offers blueberry, blackberry, graphite and a hint of mocha. firm, fine-grained tannins offer support and give it a smooth texture.

de

despite it's cheeky, critter-wine packaging, there's a fair amount of elegance to be found in this sparkling blend of trebbiano, airen and müller-thurgau. a tad sweet, it's fresh with apple, lemon and grapefruit flavors, nuanced with a hint of toast and nut. brisk acidity drives a pristine finish. drink now through 2020.

at

from the vogelsang, or “bird song” vineyard, this wine sings melodiously. it has bright green and citrus fruits, lively acidity and a crisp, dancing feel. there is a youthful feel to the acidity that demands a year in bottle. screwcap.

us

this is a very dense, layered wine, with many intricate corners to explore. the winemaker has put on lots of lees and quite a bit of new oak, which of course adds creamy, smoky complexities. fortunately, the underlying wine can handle it. pure santa lucia chardonnay, it's intricate in tangerines, limes, pineapples, honeysuckle and asian spices, with a flinty minerality. acidity is quite high.

us

there are distinct and pleasant aromas of chalk and pear on the nose of this grenache blanc, one of the many rhône-style wines made by this winery run by the family of the late actor-turned-vintner fess parker. it's a very straightforward sipper, not hugely complex, but refreshing and bright with slight nectarine flavors and lush pear.

it

this barolo shows overripe berry aromas punctuated by orange peel, balsamic herb and toast notes. while the palate offers ripe black fruit, spice and big, round tannins, it's somewhat evolved. drink soon.

us

this is the winery's ultra-reserve-level chardonnay, labeled “grand cru” just to make the point. in this vintage of exceptionally ripe fruit, its superrich style explodes from the glass, with a cavalcade of apple pie, buttered nuts and popcorn flavors. it's big, bold and massively concentrated. this is best enjoyed through 2019.

us

succulent, sun-ripened mango and citrus flavors drench the palate in this fruity, unoaked chardonnay. it's straightforward in style, but concentrated and punchy. enjoy now for it's fresh, youthful exuberance.

us

among all the latest 2009 releases from andrew will, the ciel du cheval is the most shuttered and in need of further bottle age. tight and tannic, it is unusually herbal for this hot climate site. even after many hours of breathing time, it remains stubbornly closed. given the vineyard history and winery credentials, it seems highly likely to improve significantly with more time.

at

the lyra system of training vines is designed to give the fruit maximum exposure. with that and the vines' placement on the steep heiligenstein hill, it's no surprise that this wine is ripe and rich. perfumed, intense and generous, this will age for many years.

it

passo del lupo riserva delivers personality and surprises thanks to its extremely polished aromas of indian spice, red berry, natural rubber and cola. the wood integration is lovely, and the wine is both spicy and fresh on the close.

za

a bordeaux-style blend of 56% merlot, 24% cabernet sauvignon, 14% cabernet franc, 4% malbec and 2% petit verdot, the z is typically more immediately approachable than the fusion v. the structure is still firm and supported by medium tannins, but the black-fruit core is the star all around, with lush notes of boysenberry, crème de cassis, blackberry, fig and damson plum throughout. hints of cigar-box spice and leather add depth and intrigue.

us

this bone-dry blush has flavors of pepper, herb tea and baked cherry pie filling, and finishes very dry. it tastes a little tired, despite its young age.

cl

this low-sizzle chardonnay opens with little to nothing in the way of fruit aromas. the palate is chunky, with squash and bready flavors. a lightly vegetal, bitter finish is plump but low on intensity.

fr

a light style with crisp red currant flavors, acidity and a touch of minerality.

us

a beautiful, classy cab, marked by smoky new oak and very ripe blackberry and cassis flavors, with a streak of minerals. the vineyard is in the vaca mountains, in the valley's far east. you can taste the sunshine in the wonderful fruitiness, and the tannins are extraordinarily refined, but they're also aggressive. fine now, with a long decant, but should develop bottle complexity over many years.